Mystical Beauty of Lijiang [Yunnan Province]

The Ancient town of Lijiang is a marvel in so many ways. It is the 1st City in China that I can see myself living in for some time. There is magic beyond words here. It is somewhere between the web of canals with waving water grass that infiltrates the town, the ancient symbols embedded into the roofing and courtyard floor mosaic, the maze of steep cobblestone streets and the fact that someone would sell candles in wax flowers just so that one could float the glowing flower down one of the canals!

There is a multitude of scents that scintillate one's senses - from red clay to the nutty aroma of the Naxi tea [think Yak butter, peanuts, egg, tea and milk - yes, I feel that when I drink it, I don't need to eat for a day], local furs and onion-filled baba [local thick savoury pancakes]. There are elders in traditional Naxi garb dancing to mountain music in the streets....The town is filled with music. Many local singers with Brittish accents and a guitar create a relaxed, somewhat festive ambiance... The red glow of myriads of lanterns adorns the streets, reflecting in the canal water and resonating with the wax flower candles floating through... The trees lit up in the background frame the hill filled with curly roofs... Craftsmen create their art in every second shop [most of which are fully open to the street] - woodwork, weaving, painting of every kind. There is an enchanted, mystical feel to this place.

On another note, Here I was blessed with a warm space to stay in. It turns out that the majority of the guesthouses in this part of China do not have heaters. That leaves the body quite cold [the all-permeating, Venice-in-the-winter kind]. However, here I got lucky. A Russian couple I met while admiring the underwater grass waving [and remarking to myself just how much that reminds me of Tarkovsky's "Solaris," and hearing the Bach score in my head....] has suggested the hotel they found by accident: Naxi Mama's. There is 24/7 hot water here and HEATERS in the rooms!!!! Of course, I immediately moved my things there and am now recouperating in warmth.

The tourist flux here is unparalleled. And, frankly, with the beauty of the place, how can it not be? However, the distribution of the crowds seems to follow Pareto's Principle to a T. Most folks sediment down below....and as one ascends the cobblestone maze to the top of the hill, one is in awesome solitude.